Planning the trip
This trip aroused a lot of controversies in the planning stage. Most of my friends and family showed their nervousness by speaking in croaked voices and making their doubts audible to the extent I thought I was being a dare-devil. I had visited the place as a child when I was 3 and 7, memories became fainter and fainter as years passed and after nearly 25 years I would not scrap the trip (a big chance to root the floating memoirs). We got to know some people who had visited before 6 months to a year and they gave us the green chit. We were packed and so was our luggage and we took a flight to Srinagar from Delhi.
Itinerary at a glance
- Day1- Reached Srinagar at 12.30 pm ( fight from Delhi) Checked in at Heevan Resorts
- Day2- Day trip to Sonmarg
- Day3 - Check in to houseboat
- Day4- Checked in Heevan Resort, Srinagar sight seeing
- Day5-Day7- Gulmarg ( Stay at Heevan Retreat)
- Day7- Day9- Pahalgam ( Stay at Heevan Resort)
- Day9- Flight from Srinagar back to Delhi
Shikara Ride and Hazratbal Shrine
We were served lunch in the two hour flight from New Delhi, and on reaching Srinagar airport we boarded the car already waiting for us and were on our way for sight-seeing. The first stop Dal-Lake it was a beautiful bright afternoon with a perfect 20 degree centigrade and what better way to relax than to be in a comfortable Shikara; the seat is a wooden couch with a bright red carpet on it, this is the best luxury one can expect in a wooden boat. The lake is capacious and there is a whole floating town in its many canals all surrounded by green mountains, I could be boating all night as there was food and shopping all from the comfort of my king couch but we were in Kashmir after all and there were places to go so after about 3 hours of heavenly time we sat in the car to see The Hazratbal Shrine on the banks of the lake. It one of the holiest Muslim worship place in Kashmir and has a relic who is believed to be a heir of Prophet Muhammad. The shrine looked beautiful under the star-lit night and the lights from floating houses of the Dal lake after which it was time to go check-in in the hotel.
A Day Trip to Sonmarg
It was an early start for us as we wanted to maximise our stay in Sonmarg and return back the same day, it is approximately 85km and takes slightly more than two hours to reach. We encountered some traffic, the cars had to be parked at the parking lot and we were left at the mercy of horse-carriers( ghode walla) to take us up the mountain. Needles to say that they mobbed us and quoted obnoxious amount, showing off their horses and promising safe journey. We negotiated and brought the rate down by 20% hired jackets and boots and reached the snow covered mountain. The kids and me were very excited to see snow it was not very deep and fresh a little dirty too but we enjoyed sledging and tobogganing. All that playing, falling, slipping etc made us hungry and we found hot Maggie Noodles and coffee!!! The only reason we we enjoyed Sonmarg was because we hadn't seen Pahalgam and Gulmarg, today my advise will be to skip Sonmarg from your itinerary.
Houseboat Stay at Srinagar
Well the most exciting part of itinerary turned out to be a bit disappointing as the houseboats are cramped, over the top gaudy in aesthetics and hygiene is highly questionable. On top of it they are all next to each other in one line so from the houseboat you see only one part of the lake and generally that is unclean because it has been polluted from the waste generated from the houseboat. There can be privacy and safety issues also in a houseboat. We had a relaxed morning( after 3 hectic days) and then went on long Shikara ride and explored the smallest canals and the floating towns. I must mention there is an interesting night market in the Dal Lake that has fabulous handicrafts, woolen wear and artifacts at competitive prices. Some of the things one can look to buy are wooden articles from pencil boxes to tables, Fine woolen strolls (Pashmina), wooden sculptures, paper mashe artifacts, hand-woven carpets, Kashmiri dresses etc.
The numerous gardens in Srinagar
Srinagar is a City Of Gardens, Venice Of The East. The Mughals ruled it from the 14th century to 18th century and most of the gardens were established at that time. Each garden is unique in its conception, location and view.
Shalimar Bagh- The Mughal Emperor Jhangir built it to please who else but his wife Noorjahan. It indeed has all the elements that would please a queen, lots of Chinar Trees, flowers, water bodies , fountains, terraces and over the past 400 years nothing much has changed ( most evident change has been its name and the inclusion of a restaurant) .
Nishat Bagh- This garden is also on the banks of Dal Lake, at this point I must mention that the tourist part of Srinagar is around the Dal Lake, the other part where the locals reside( the epicentre for curfews and disruptions) is quite congested, cluttered, dirty and far from the lake. Nishat Bagh though smaller than Shalimar Bagh is unique as it has many levels ( like terrace farming) and exhibits a fabulous view of The Himalayas, The Dal Lake and the city. Definitely worth a visit.
Chashma Shahi- The seeds of this garden was also sowed by the Mughals and its exclusiveness lies in the fact that it is watered by a mountain spring. It is said that, the first Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jwaharlal Nehru used to get his drinking water supplied each day from Chashma Shahi to his home in New Delhi. That is worth tasting, don't you think so?
Shalimar Bagh- The Mughal Emperor Jhangir built it to please who else but his wife Noorjahan. It indeed has all the elements that would please a queen, lots of Chinar Trees, flowers, water bodies , fountains, terraces and over the past 400 years nothing much has changed ( most evident change has been its name and the inclusion of a restaurant) .
Nishat Bagh- This garden is also on the banks of Dal Lake, at this point I must mention that the tourist part of Srinagar is around the Dal Lake, the other part where the locals reside( the epicentre for curfews and disruptions) is quite congested, cluttered, dirty and far from the lake. Nishat Bagh though smaller than Shalimar Bagh is unique as it has many levels ( like terrace farming) and exhibits a fabulous view of The Himalayas, The Dal Lake and the city. Definitely worth a visit.
Chashma Shahi- The seeds of this garden was also sowed by the Mughals and its exclusiveness lies in the fact that it is watered by a mountain spring. It is said that, the first Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jwaharlal Nehru used to get his drinking water supplied each day from Chashma Shahi to his home in New Delhi. That is worth tasting, don't you think so?
Gulmarg
Gulmarg is a mountain-shelf which is in Pir Panjal - the western most range of the six ranges that make The Himalayas (highest peaks in the world). We drove from Srinagar and the drive as you reach Gulmarg becomes breathtaking and the temperatures lower. Gulmarg town is very scantily populated in comparison to Srinagar and away from the main market there are no roads so the only mean of transport available is horse and 11 ( turn it upside down and it means legs). There is also restriction for Srinagar vehicles to go to certain parts of town.
Gulmarg is perfectly green in the month of may with extensive, expansive, broad and wide mountain range and glowing white or golden peaks, inviting you to come to its lap. Can you imagine what it would take( destruction to environment) to make roads to reach these peaks and hours of restless driving in those winding strips looking like ribbons.
Children's Park and Golf Coarse- In the heart of Gulmarg is a large park with scattered slides, swings and seesaws with undulating little hills, flower beds and stone pathways, a perfect place to snap little kids at play. Next to it is the golf coarse open to public, I did not see anybody playing golf but kids had a gala time driving through it in a golf cart.
Gondola- A rope- way that air lifts you and takes you to the peak approximately 6500 meters. There is a mid way station for the ones who want to enjoy at lower altitude (June- November there is no snow at this level). We were brave-hearts so we went to the highest level (fully enveloped with thick snow) and spent couple of hours there with watering eyes and nose. From one side of peak you can see Pakistan and also many popular Himalayan peaks like Nanga Parvat etc.
Gondola has made Gulmarg the biggest ski destination of Asia but in popularity it has not caught up to being one because foreign tourists avoid travel to this location due to its political vulnerability and Skiing is not the most favourite sport of Indians ( we are happy with cricket and hockey). Infact the ski equipment available for hire is of very under- average quality.
Gulmarg is perfectly green in the month of may with extensive, expansive, broad and wide mountain range and glowing white or golden peaks, inviting you to come to its lap. Can you imagine what it would take( destruction to environment) to make roads to reach these peaks and hours of restless driving in those winding strips looking like ribbons.
Children's Park and Golf Coarse- In the heart of Gulmarg is a large park with scattered slides, swings and seesaws with undulating little hills, flower beds and stone pathways, a perfect place to snap little kids at play. Next to it is the golf coarse open to public, I did not see anybody playing golf but kids had a gala time driving through it in a golf cart.
Gondola- A rope- way that air lifts you and takes you to the peak approximately 6500 meters. There is a mid way station for the ones who want to enjoy at lower altitude (June- November there is no snow at this level). We were brave-hearts so we went to the highest level (fully enveloped with thick snow) and spent couple of hours there with watering eyes and nose. From one side of peak you can see Pakistan and also many popular Himalayan peaks like Nanga Parvat etc.
Gondola has made Gulmarg the biggest ski destination of Asia but in popularity it has not caught up to being one because foreign tourists avoid travel to this location due to its political vulnerability and Skiing is not the most favourite sport of Indians ( we are happy with cricket and hockey). Infact the ski equipment available for hire is of very under- average quality.
PAHALGAM
Pahalgam is closest to my heart. Nature is at its aesthetical best with smooth green rolling hills bordered by long beautiful coniferous trees under the composed Himalayas and River Lidder flowing here and there noisily but calmly. Pahalgam is around 145 km from Gulmarg and took us about 6-7 hours to reach. As soon as you enter Pahalgam there is an amusement park with rides reminding you of Appu Garh in Delhi. Not only kids, but we also enjoyed a bit of adrenaline rush in the park ( more so as it was least expected at 2745m). In Pahalgam also you have to depend on horses to take you to the points (Betab Valley) and believe me not only does your back break by sitting on the horse for hours going up and down the mountain but the scare of falling down the mountain( even if there is space the horse likes to trod at the edge) literally kills you. Alas, you reach the point and say to yourself that it was WORTH it and you can do it hundred times. In the night at the hotel all you want to do is dip your legs in hot water and look for hot-bags and volini for your back.
Shopping
An itinerary without shopping is atrocious, and if you are in Kashmir you shop till you drop ( or till your luggage tears). There are beautiful clothes to buy like Kashmiri kurtas, kaftans, jackets sarees and strolls. There is the famous Pashmina shawl made from the finest wool which is absolutely stunning and expensive( ranges from 7000Rs to 50000 Rs). There is bounteous collection of handicrafts, beautiful jewellery carpets, furniture and the list goes on and on. Walnuts and saffron are grown in abundance and most markets sell it at competitive prices. Kava - the local tea is aromatic and worth its price. If you are not the shopping type and none of these interests you go to the local markets and try the apples its sweet and juicy.
Recommendation: You will find shops everywhere in Kashmir but there is a stark difference in prices a same product might be available at half price in another shop. I would suggest try the market at The Dal Lake in the night and a small wholesale market in Pahalgam ( approximately 20-25 km away from town). We got fabulous deals at these places.
Recommendation: You will find shops everywhere in Kashmir but there is a stark difference in prices a same product might be available at half price in another shop. I would suggest try the market at The Dal Lake in the night and a small wholesale market in Pahalgam ( approximately 20-25 km away from town). We got fabulous deals at these places.